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How to Tie a Klemheist Knot

Intermediate
🧗 Climbing🏔️ Mountaineering🔒 Safety

The Klemheist is a directional friction hitch that works with flat webbing as well as cord — grips strongly downward and slides freely upward, used for ascending and as a progress-capture device.

How to Tie a Klemheist Knot Step by Step

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Written Instructions — Klemheist Knot

  1. Wrap sling around main rope Bring sling around the main rope starting from the closed loop end at the bottom.
  2. Three wraps upward Continue wrapping 3 times, stacking wraps neatly going upward.
  3. Thread closed end through top loop Take the closed loop end of the sling and pass it through the loop above the wraps.
  4. Load downward Grips under downward load, slides freely when you push upward on the knot body.

Tips for Tying a Klemheist Knot

  • Works with flat webbing unlike the Prusik — more versatile when cord isn't available.
  • 3 wraps minimum. Use 4 wraps on wet or icy ropes.
  • Test before trusting by applying progressive weight — verify it grips before fully loading.
  • The directional nature means it ONLY grips downward — don't expect upward gripping.

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